roadquill1

Dear family and friends! As I have not posted for over a week, this one is lengthy! The Coles Notes edition is as follows:

Saw Wilsons Promontory, visited Lakes Entrance, Mallacoota and Eden,  missed a kangaroo, returned car to Canberra, and paid double for one hotel room.

Day 21: February 21Okay…this has been a live-and-learn period of our Aussie visit! We are now heading for Brisbane on a Qantas flight from Canberra after returning our rental vehicle yesterday and staying overnight at the Capital Executive Apartment Hotel, after an unfortunate double-booking. I’ll come back to that learning experience after catching you up on our journeys. So…back to continuing from last post…

Day 15: February 15

We arose on our “country estate” BnB to beautiful bird songs and sunny weather and the promise of warmth. We had a lovely drive over to the town of Leongatha where Sandy bought some warm fleece pants, and I enjoyed a “flat white” coffee while making friends with a stray border collie. Then we headed over the mountains to Wilsons Promontory to visit some spectacular beaches. Unfortunately, we learned that we should always pack our bathing suits and towels, as we had inappropriate gear for swimming. (Who swims in new fleece pants?)

Back at the ranch, we had dinner, and then enjoyed the beautiful dusk and bird calls while I picked some fruit in the orchard. No koalas! (But also – no spiders or snakes.)

Day 16: February 16

Slow start followed by easy drive just off the coast through a few small towns to Lakes Entrance. Our registration took a bit of time as we got to know the chatty young desk attendant, and the owners’ very cute young toddler daughter – Ava. We finally got our room key for 2 nights in a lovely clean room on a very quiet street beside a magnificent view of the water. 

The Tourist Info in Lakes Entrance provided us with a beautiful map of the area, and we were directed to all of the walking paths available. We began with a walk across the first inlet to the outer beach area. As evening approached, a chilly breeze cut our meandering short, so we headed back to our motel. Unfortunately, the “best sunset view” was blocked by clouds. 

Day 17: February 17

After our motel breakfast, and some cleaning chores, we headed back into town for more explorations. Lakes Entrance is a pretty little town with a beautiful harbour and is obviously well known for its main industry – tourism. In the evening we watched news of rapidly moving bush fires east of Canberra, and another near Christchurch NZ. That same night, a powerful local wind storm in Sydney ripped roofs off of 4 houses in Nicki’s neighbourhood. Luckily, her place was untouched except for some branch litter! (And also in the news…always in the news…the Donald!)

Day 18: February 18 (Did you notice how easy it is for me to match the day to the date?)

We don our rain gear for the inclement, chilly weather and head towards our friends, Gabe and Ursula, in Eden. At their suggestion, we have decided to take another run out to the coast to visit the town of Mallacoota. It turns out to be have high interest to campers, and fishers, and we saw over 500 campsites around the water front. Our intention was to have a coffee on a patio, but chill, and a couple of upwind smokers drove us inside. We headed out of town for a sandwich at a beach picnic area, and were strolling out on the beach to check out the big rollers when a rain squall came in. End of that effort!

Back on the road to Eden, I glanced into the rear view mirror just as Sandy yelled, and a kangaroo leapt out in from of us. I hit the binders hard as it fell on its side right by my right front wheel. Our speed was way too fast to stop, but when I looked back in the rear view, there was no sign of the roo. It had made it…and eventually, we did too – to the lovely old whaling community of Eden, and the beautiful “bed and breakfast” suite in the home of Gabe Gajdatsy, and Ursula Wall.

Day 19: February 19

After a 8 km walk, and a very tasty pancake breakfast on the deck overlooking Aislee Bay, Gabe and Ursula take us on a road trip to Ben Boyd National Park where this historical character built a very tall tower for whale spotting – to get a jump on his competitor whale spotters. The tower is located on a cliff promontory overlooking spectacular rocky shores.

Next we drove to the historical Davidson residence of a whaling family at Kiah Bay in the same park. This beautiful bay was the site of a very successful (gruesome and odiferous, apparently) whaling operation where aboriginals worked with the family, and herding orcas, which would force the blubber whales into the bay where they were slaughtered and rendered. A tour of downtown Eden followed lunch at Ben Boyd’s original home lodge, and then our day ended with a lovely supper at our residence.

Day 20: February 20

Today we leave our friends and head back to Canberra to return our rental car and spend a night before catching a flight to Brisbane. They won’t let us leave, however, without another beach walk and tasty omelet breakfast. We say our good-byes and head off. The road to back to Canberra takes us through some picturesque farmland, a highway accident, road construction, a mountain climb, and on to the town of Bungendore where we have been advised to stop in to the Wood Store. The displays of fabulous wood artifacts in this place leave me stunned, and amazed. There is SOOO much to learn and create in wood! My list of workshop projects grows!

Back in Canberra, we lose our GPS signal to Google Maps just as we are negotiating through rush-hour traffic to return our rental car. After a touch of panic, and a phone call, we find our way to Thrifty’s, and then make our way to the Capital Executive Apartment Hotel. Bad news! We (I) have inadvertently booked through Booking.com TWICE, and must now pay for two rooms. (I missed the first email confirmation somewhere along the way.) My email appeal to the manager is rejected due to “strict Cancellation Policy”. (I could have used that money way more wisely at Lee Valley!)

Day 12: Sunday, February 12

We headed out of Ballarat and once again set our course on Google Maps – this time for Warrnambool on the Great Ocean Road west of Melbourne. 

Eventually we found our way to the coast at Torquay where we coffee’d up and then joined the heavy traffic on the Great Ocean Road. Very scenic! I intend to write a separate blog note on Australian road travel, but suffice it to say…I am VERY impressed! Wild beaches and the winding road kept my attention, and finally, as a fine drizzle began, we arrived at the Twelve Apostles – a series of magnificently eroded rocks along the shore. (There are no longer 12, as several have eroded away.) We found a parking spot in a tourist scene that was a bit of a zoo, even in this chilly weather. (Down to 11°C at one point today! It NEVER goes that low in our Island summer!) Luckily, we were dressed for the occasion with jeans and rain jackets. As we headed down to the viewing walkway, a sign warned tourist to stay on the path, because off it…”venomous snakes”! Okay, so now the paved centre of the pathway was REALLY crowded – nobody in the passing lanes near the grass. We finally elbowed our way down to the viewing area where hurricane force winds suddenly hit – along with shower squalls. We soldiered on a bit, took some pics, and then fought our way back through the “centre traffic” lane. We gladly got back on the road, and eventually found our way to a lovely home in Warrnambool, where we met our hosts – Brenda and Roger, their thirties-something son, Roger, and their deaf “teddy bear Pomeranian”, Mandy. (Mandy may not have a lot of snuffles left in her at age 15). Dinner was at a burger place in town. After dinner, we toured the waterfront, and then returned to our room which was beautiful. Our hosts were warm and friendly. Good intro to Airbnb, though we aren’t completely comfortable in someone else’s space!

Day 13: Monday, February 13

Today we head for a place called Callum Down, southeast of Melbourne. We will bypass Melbourne by travelling to Queenscliff, and taking a ferry to Sorrento. I decided to give the Google “voice” a more appropriate name for this country: she is now Rooby! 

Perhaps she didn’t like her new name, or perhaps my Canadian accent didn’t come through clearly. Where I meant “Go to route”, Rooby interpreted it, once again as “goat route”, (I, personally, like her style) and once again we veered off of good Aussie highways, and onto back roads with only a rare tractor, or farm truck to avoid.

At last we reach the ferry terminal at Queenscliff, and Sandy makes the mistake of stepping out of the car to watch the incoming ferry. She steps into very high winds, and watches as the ferry rocks and rolls towards the dock. I think “Uh -oh! I may be continuing this journey without my passenger!” However, she recovers her good spirits, and eventually we rock and roll our own way across to Sorrento. Rest of journey to Callum is uneventful. 

Day 14: Tuesday, February 14

Our route today was leisurely, and we toured south around Phillip Island. We walked to several beaches and promontories including Point Grant, where once again we were warned to stay on the boardwalk because of “our shy snake – the [poisonous] copperhead…no specific anti-venom”. We don’t need to be told twice! Spectacular scenes as waves crash on rocks!

We have now reached our second Airbnb. It is a room (neat, but needed some cleanup) in the back of a large shed on a rural piece of land. The owner uses the shed to make cheese and I think that the fridge odour proved his point that some had ripened in the fridge. It is not quite what we expected. It doesn’t appear to have heat, so hope that that won’t be a problem on these coolish days. (It’s about 17°C right now…and I was wrong, there is a heater – which we used in the evening.) On arrival, I asked about the chances of seeing a koala, and he told us it was pretty good. I then jokingly asked if there was anything around that Bill Bryson would have warned us about, and he said, “No…well, spiders, – lots of them,… and snakes – copperheads – but no one has been bitten.” (Yet! We have booked for two nights!) And…we must boil our drinking water, and…the bathroom is outside, though clean, and appropriate, still requires that walk outside in the dark at night…we’ll hope that the only encounters with the locals are with cuddly koalas! 

Saturday, February 11, 2017

Day 11: Saturday, February 11

…So there we were…almost out of petrol on a very lonely stretch of outback backroad (thanks to the combined navigational skills of Siri, actually Googletta, the voice on Google Maps, and Tony) near a deserted town called Emu Flats…on the “hottest day on Australian records – a “catastrophic weather” day, as per ABC Radio. While we bounced along a one-lane ancient pavement, and anxiously eyed the fuel tank gauge, Googletta announced that “in 1 kilometer, (she pronounces it incorrectly to rhyme with thermometer) turn left onto Thingaroo Track.” I don’t recall the name of the “track” (it may have been “Goataroo Track” – lots of “…oos” in the “land down under”! And… I think that the word “divorce” may have been mentioned more than once from the passenger seat!

Okay, so though most of that happened, you may want to categorize it as fake news! Anyway, we made it to Kyneton, where we found petrol, and saved the marriage for another 40 years!
However…to back up a bit (but not through Emu Flats)…

Day 8: Wednesday, February 8
Nicki took us for a wonderful bike ride around the eastern parts of the Canberra Lake. We were able to join her thanks to the generous donations of road bikes from Caroline Pfahl, and Anne Johnston, two of Nicki’s “mates”. (Another good Aussie addition to my vocab.) After the ride we had a quick cool-off swim in Nicki’s pool, then headed out for a quick shopping trip to pick up an “Esky” (portable cooler for drinks) and some new sandals. After a home-made dinner, Sandy and I used the Airbnb and Booking.com Apps (recommendations from Bob and Jane Aspen, and Nicki) to book some accommodations along our planned route. 

Day 9: Thursday, February 9
Today is a challenge! But first, since the clouds have finally lifted after all this time with Nicki, she would like us to see Canberra from the top of Mt. Ainslie under blue sky. We do so, and say our fond good-byes to Nicki. And now to the challenges…I have to learn how to drive on the wrong side, once again, I have to learn how to deal with oncoming traffic in round-abouts, and…I have to find my way, with assistance from Googletta, and my Quilter…through towns with weird names like Cooma, Jindabyne, Thredbo, Khancoban and aiming for Corryong’s campground at Colac-Colac. AND…to add to the challenge, there is deathly silence from my driving companion for many kilometers (“KILL-o-meters”, remember!…I think she does!) as we wind down the mountains on the narrow, twisty road from the ski village of Thredbo to Khancoban.

Love, light and happiness returns as we reach wider, straighter roads. The cabin that we are assigned to at Colac-Colac is Spartan, but lovely, clean and cool. (However, I think that Pharoah must have rented it before us, because I found one dead frog and two live ones hopping around…the live ones, not the dead one, for goodness sake!)

Day 10: Friday, February 10
The run from Thredbo must have unhinged Sandy more than I imagined, because tonight, she has booked us into the Beechworth Insane Asylum. (“You can check in any time you want, but you can never leave!) No lie, and not fake news! But, once again, I get ahead of myself.

After a short tour of Corryong in the morning, we followed Googletta’s directions to get to Beechworth. We watched in horror as the outside temperatures climbed, and climbed to finally reach 42°C at our destination. Our destination was the George Kerferd Hotel, which, it turns out, is on the site of the Beechworth Insane Asylum which finally closed down in the late 1990s. Although it is only a short walk into town, the outside air would quickly have turned me into a very tough piece of chicken if I had tried it, so we drove in, found a place to park in the shade, and wandered around in lung searing air. We decided to hit the Brew Road brew pub for pizza later. Then, back to our room, and a swim in the pool. (This also had risks as wasps were hovering over the surface and dipping down for drinks.) Pizza dinner was great! Then back to the Asylum, er…Hotel where we wandered the beautiful grounds and checked out the amazing old structures of the asylum. On a brochure it described how it took 2 signatures to get into the hotel – oops, asylum, but 8 signatures to get out! Less than 1/3 of all inmates ever were released! 

Day 11: Saturday, February 11
We have returned to our starting point, almost. I went looking for 8 people who would help me sign out. They were all in the free breakfast room. We left Beechworth, which despite my silliness, is a very beautiful town with friendly folks like Gina Kromar at the flower shop.

The drive to Ballarat is beautiful – at least the way Googletta took us. Sandy was excited to see signs warning of kangaroos, koalas, wombats, and emus, but alas, though we had seen many on Thursday, (BTW they were all prone… “sleeping, Sandy!” – some more soundly than others…i.e.skeletal) today there were no sightings – lively or otherwise.
Our residence at the end of the day is a motel that could be straight out of the 1950s – except for the microwave, air conditioner and flat screen TV without rabbit ears. However, it is clean and comfortable, and totally in keeping with what was happening downtown where we went for supper: the Ballarat Beat Rockabilly Festival, complete with autos from the 1950s, folks dressed in period costumes, and loud street bands playing early rock!
And now I have reached the end, and I can hear the sighs of relief from here.
We hope that you are all well, and recovering from winter miseries! Much love to all!
The Quilter and the Quill (Sandy and Tony)
p.s. We found a quilt shop in Ballarat, but it was closed now until Monday! Aw darn!
p.p.s. Pics will be posted on Facebook and Instagram.

February 7, 2017

Greetings to our families and friends!
We have now spent our first two days with “The Wizard” (our travel guide in New South Wales), Nicki Vance, in the Land of Oz. Nicki has, most thoroughly, investigated our travelling hopes, and has anticipated our needs with a variety of exploration options for Sydney, Tuross and Canberra. We feel very secure after being overwhelmed by travel guides from the library.

Our flights were comfortable, and neither of us experienced much in the way of jet-lag, so after missing January 31 as we crossed the International Dateline, we began our stay with Nicki: a driving tour around Sydney, a lengthy walk around a historical mental institution (now closed, so the question of my possible admittance had to be abandoned) to the waterfront nearby, lunch at the UTS Rowing Club, a brief shopping trip where I purchased a Telstra SIM card and cell plan and then home to catch up on some snooze time. A BBQ evening dinner closed off the day.

Day 2 Thursday, February 2

Today was a “tour Sydney Harbour” day so via buses, harbour ferries, 12 km of walking and an LRT ride in rather comfortable overcast mid-20’s temperatures, we wandered around Sydney harbour. This included a walk around the Sydney Opera House, Botanical Gardens, a ferry ride out to Watson Bay for a climb to the Gap (South Head) cliffs overlooking the ocean to the south, and luncheon of fish and chips at a beach-front restaurant. Back at the Rocks (downtown), we strolled under the Harbour Bridge, (the climb to the top was out of the question since it costs are as high as the bridge itself!) around Dawes Point and to the top of Barangaroo Reserve (a garden on top of a concrete dome built on the old wharves). We finally gave our feet a break at a waterfront cafe that served cold drinks. A light-rail took us back to Lilyfield for a BBQ supper and welcome retirement.

Day 3: Friday, February 3

The air-conditioning in the car cooled us a bit as Nicki took us on another tour of Sydney out to Bondi, Tamarama and Bronté Beaches. We parked and walked the beautiful trail from the cemetery at the western end (cemeteries seem to get beautiful view real estate here) to Bondi for luncheon, and then back. Humidity and heat were both high, and getting back into AC in the car was welcome after our 9km stroll. (Temps were up to high 20’s today…and I’m NOT complaining given the weather reports coming out of the lower BC mainland and Island!) This day had the most blue sky we have seen, but it is hazy.

Day 4: Saturday, February 4

The day began with a visit to the local Saturday market in the Elementary school grounds. After coffee we packed up and then headed south towards Tuross Head – a 6 hour coastal drive. This beautiful beach town has been a long-time vacation spot for the Vance family. We stopped several times, and ventured into the heat outside the vehicle (up to 32C occasionally).

We arrived at the cabin at about Happy Hour, got settled, and then headed over to a Coila Lake fishing marina and café for fish and chips. By dark we were ready to call it quits for the day. The air was still, and quite warm, and a very small surf rolled onto the beach beside us. 

Day 5: Sunday February 5

On the deck in the lovely morning, we enjoy the visits of brightly coloured parrots…rainbow lorikeets, and crimson rosellas. We walked around the Head for morning coffees at the marina, and spotted our first “Roos” – 2 kangaroos in a vacant lot on our way back. Next, it was swim time in what Nicki refers to as “very flat” water (however the waves were big enough to knock us over!) Her comment when we saw other swimmers in ahead of us…”Good! There’s other shark bait!” Then, home to lunch, lounge and dolphin display offshore. Relaxed reading afternoon while seeing another kangaroo cross the pathway below us. After a game of bananagram in the evening we shut down until wild electrical storm woke us in the middle of the night. 

Day 6: Monday, February 6

There are still some showers around after last night’s incredible display, but it is mild, if not a bit muggy. Internet weather for Canberra indicates very high temps in the 30’s so we’ll hold off heading there until later in the day.   

We walked to the cafe, and then back, to put about 10km under our sandals. We saw 2 more kangaroos, kangaroo tracks on the beach, and lots of “roo poo” on our cabin lawn. They’re everywhere! 

It was time to pack, clean and leave. Nicki chose the coastal roads and we saw some beautiful beaches until we took King’s Highway to Canberra. We climbed and climbed (and temperatures fell) until we were into rain and heavy, pea-soup fog near the summit. Then, we found clearer air and higher temperatures to 31C as we reached Canberra. 

Day 7: Tuesday, February 7

Today was Canberra tour day. We began with a drive to the top of Mt. Ainslie for a high view of the whole city, and its pre-planned design layout. Then we drove around the main highlight areas, including the Parliament buildings, embassy row, and the design heart of the city – its lakes and parks. We toured the Arboretum (and hiked the cork oak plantation), had Turkish kebabs (donairs) in a park by a lake, hiked past several mobs of kangaroos, borrowed a couple of bikes from Nicki’s friends for a ride tomorrow, and had a very full day!

It is time to publish this, and get it off my chest…er…iPad!

For those who have persevered through to the end…thank-you! For those who didn’t…well, you didn’t finish and neither will I!

Love and best wishes to all, and may warm rains soon wash the white from the roads and driveways on Vancouver Island and the Lower Mainland.

The Quilter and the Quill (Sandy and Tony)

P.S. It takes too much time and effort to add pictures on this blog, so I am posting them on Facebook and Instagram.